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Nooristani dress

An early 20th century vintage Nooristani “Jumlo” wedding dress from Kohistan/Nooristan (Afghanistan). It is intricately embroidered with silk threads on black cotton, with lots of white and copper plastic buttons, metal roundels, lead beads. At the time it was made, the dress would have been worn with a pair of pants with embroidered cuffs and a headdress in the form of a hood, worn by the woman who made it. Very little is known about these dresses as they are rarely sold (only if the family needed money) and there are no known photographs of women wearing them. Hundreds of godets, or insets of cloth, give fullness to the skirt. Some of these dresses may have as many as 600 godets in their skirts. The simply-cut bodice and sleeves are adorned with embroidery in a cross stitch and a darning stitch. Buttons, beads and coins were sewn on for additional adornment as well as to make a tinkling sound as the wearer moved, which served to scare away evil spirits.

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